What’s in a Bra: Fabrics Used in Your Bra

Over the years, us gals have had the benefit of a lot of innovation in our bra design. But some of the most awesome innovations have been advances in the fabric that makes up our bras! Things like breathable, moisture-wicking fabrics for sports bras have become standard today, but they’ve really only become popular within the past few years. Other changes in fabrics have made bras more comfortable to wear, and have made us look better in the process!

Lycra, Ladies – Lycra!
Lycra hit the market in 1959, and has remained an unstoppable fabric in bra construction ever since! As you probably already know, Lycra is a stretchy, synthetic spandex fiber that is very popular in bra construction for its exceptional elasticity and increased durability. Before Lycra, bras were typically made out of cotton-based materials; materials that stretched and didn’t wear well, had to be replaced frequently because of the stretch, and weren’t the most flattering to our shapes.

Since Lycra, we’ve enjoyed improvements to comfortable and flexibility for “the girls,” and longer wear and tear combined with increased durability. In response to requests for Lycra that could stand up to machine washing without fraying or fading, Invista, the company responsible for Lycra, created “Lycra Black.” Lycra Black is an elastane fiber whose spun-dyed technology prevents color from fading in the wash. It also helps to reduce the uneven “shiny” effect that sometimes happens when dark Lycra is stretched out.

Many nursing bras now feature a cotton/Lycra blend for comfort and to provide support and flexible cups for nursing mothers

Today’s Lycra can withstand more wear and tear than ever, and is a key component in most bra construction. Lycra has contributed to innovations in nursing bras; the cups are frequently made of a combination of stretch cotton and Lycra to better withstand the changes that breastfeeding women experience as their breasts engorge and deplete. Lycra hasn’t quite made bras “indestructible” yet – but it has helped bra construction come a long way!

Foam molded cup bras retain shape and offer thin, smoothing padding

Foam Padding
Padding in bras used to be made of cloth, which could become hot, weigh down the wearer, and potentially fail to retain its shape. Today’s padding is largely made of foam, which has a ton of benefits over cloth! Foam allows molded cup bras to retain their shape at all times, and maintain a smooth appearance under tops – it’s a key component in t-shirt bras. Foam is also thinner than fiberfill lining; it can still prevent nipple show-through, but without the added bulk of a fabric lining. Finally, many of today’s foam cups are breathable and hypoallergenic, making them much more comfortable to wear!

Moisture-Wicking Fabric

Moisture-wicking fabrics in sports bras keep you cool and dry

One of the biggest fabric innovations to really take off in the past several years has been moisture-wicking fabric in sports bras. Intelligent fabrics, like Coolmax, Double Dry, PlayDry, 02Cool and others – typically pull moisture away from your skin and moves it to the outside of the bra, where it runs off or evaporates. Nearly all the bra companies have their own special patented moisture-wicking fabric – and a special name for it – but it all does pretty much the same thing. Happily, moisture-wicking fabrics are also making their way into everyday bras, making them a lot more comfortable to wear during the hot summer months, or for women who work in warm or humid environments.

These are just a few of the innovations that have made our bras more durable and more comfortable to wear. Join us next week as we look at innovations to underwires, straps and the bra construction process!

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The Origins of Your Bra: The Mechanics of Bra Design

Conturelle does a lot of work on bra development - and it shows!

Bra design is constantly evolving as designers strive to keep up with our needs. But seriously – most of us women who wear bras aren’t engineers, so we only have a vague idea of what’s involved in the design and construction process. It’s actually pretty cool, though – understanding the design process offers insights into the cost of bras, why some bras fit better than others and hold up better than others, and what differentiates one brand from another.

The Concept and Prototype
Every new bra design starts with a concept; typically in an attempt to solve some sort of problem. With the clothes we women are wearing these days, one of the biggest areas where design has been evolving is in the creation of plunge bras – particularly convertible plunge bras. So let’s look at the design process for a new plunge bra.

When a designer conceives a concept, he sketches a technical design, and a pattern is created from that design. From the pattern, a prototype is crafted. Many of the higher-end designers craft these “working models” by hand, although some companies that use machines for their manufacture process machine a new prototype.

A new design usually goes through a lot of iterations. A pair of cups may be formed by “hot pressing” foam into the proper shape. Straps and band are then sewn on; maybe by hand or by machine, depending on the shop. The designer looks at the prototype and then tweaks the details, with the idea of making sure that every part is both fashionable and functional.

The Working Model
When the designer has a working model he’s happy with, a live “fit model” is brought in. The fit model wears the prototype, and offers feedback to the designer. Fit models talk about where the bra is comfortable, where the fit feels off, what they think of it – all the things we think about when we wear bras. The designer then tweaks the bra, develops a new prototype, and then brings the fit model back for another round of review.

Some higher-end designers, such as Conturelle, use many different fit models with different body types to see how the fit is from woman to woman, and make sure they end up with the most comfortable product. Some designers have women wear the working models for hours, or days, doing a variety of activities, to make more in-depth comments about fit. But all of this costs money, which goes into the development of the bra; so generally, the bras at lower price points can’t afford to do as much extensive testing. You can typically assume that bras at higher price points have more time spent on development.

Is the Bra Sellable?
Once the bra designer is happy with the design, has plenty of feedback from the fit model(s) and is ready to move forward, the bra goes into a phase where the designers, manufacturers and marketers collaborate to ensure they have a sellable product. Ideally, designers want their bras to appeal to as many women as possible, although more and more designers are now offering niche bras where they see a need. But plenty of great bras never make it into production because the parties involved can’t agree that it’s sellable, and put together a great marketing plan.

If all the parties involved can agree that it’s sellable, production begins – and then your bra starts the process of getting to your local retailer!

Bet you’ll look at your bra differently the next time you put it on, now that you know some of the effort that goes into design! In our next post, we’ll look at the next part of the process: production, distribution and how your bra makes it to your retailer!

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